Menswear fashion weeks have long played second fiddle to the more established and popular womenswear fashion weeks and shows. And while this is very understandable when you look at the proportion of the market that womenswear holds over menswear, it is a pity because menswear labels are increasingly flexing their creative muscles to appeal to a growing and more creatively conscious market.
The days when menswear fashion weeks consisted of show after show of labels showcasing suits tailored sharply enough to rival a model’s cheekbones have very definitely comes to a close. While tailoring and suits will always have their place within menswear, shapes and silhouettes are much more relaxed than in seasons past.
A move towards a more relaxed lifestyle has seen menswear be more heavily influenced by sportswear in recent seasons. Do we even bat an eye at a tailored suit being paired with sneakers? Do we question why there’s now logo or branded tape down the sides of our Prince of Wales check trousers?
The increased popularity of travel and exploration is also making its mark on men’s fashion. Firstly, the fashion industry has seen an opportunity to provide clothes to an expanding market of traveller. Secondly, brands and labels are being influenced by the cultures we experience on our travels. Translating those influences onto the runway always walks a fine line between appreciation and appropriation.
With all these new influences and attitudes in men’s fashion, the runways at menswear fashion weeks are becoming increasingly exciting and the SA Menswear Week (SAMW) runways are no exception. On the unusually, but very appropriately, warm evenings of 06 and 07 July, designers and labels from South Africa and the continent sent their Spring/ Summer 2019 collections down the SAMW runway. And yes, I’m well aware that the spring and summer of 2019 are more than a year away, but there are definite lessons to be learnt for our upcoming summer season.
1. Go Luxe
While streetwear is having a major influence on fashion at the moment, there is definitely still a sizable market for luxury goods. British-Nigerian designer Tokyo James appeals to both these markets and his runway at SAMW was a masterstroke in luxury streetwear. Various elements of fashion’s luxurious roots can be found throughout the Tokyo James collection; exotic print leathers and metallics are incorporated into double-breasted suits while brilliant all-white looks made an impact. My favourite piece of the collection, an embellished lavender trucker jacket, most perfectly illustrated the collection’s merging of luxury and streetwear.
2. Play With Print And Texture
A definite favourite at any SAMW is the Chulaap show. Designer, and all-round creative master, Chu Suwannapha once again showcased a collection that was a master-class in print usage and combinations. Some lessons to be learnt from the Chulaap show on how to incorporate more prints into your wardrobe are:
• Combining different colours of the same print in the same look can be bold without transcending into the outrageous.
• Different prints in the same colour make a strong but unifying statement.
• Traditional patterns like stripes and checks can be given a summer makeover when executed in bold and vibrant colour combinations.
Chulaap also made the case for unexpected fabrics choices in men’s fashion. There is after all no valid reason why anglaise in a subdued mint green should be restricted to ladieswear.
3. Stay Naturally Cool
An important consideration for dressing during summer is to wear fabrics that breathe and can thus keep you cool. Cottons, linens and blends thereof should therefore be an essential for any summer wardrobe. For a good many just the mention of linen evokes images of stone hues and Jesus sandals, but this couldn’t be further from the actual natural fibre offerings in menswear today.
Styling tips should definitely be taken from Amanda Laird Cherry’s SS19 ALC Man collection. Being a Durban based label has likely meant that they’ve learnt quite a few things about being stylish in hot and humid weather. Vibrant pops of green and yellow make for bold colour choices and contrast stitching on denim updates a fashion favourite. The use of breathable fabrics and playing with proportions also allows for summer layering.
4. Get Active
It seems repetitive to have to say it again, but it bears repeating that menswear’s predominant influence over the last few seasons has been activewear shapes and silhouettes and its influence on streetwear. A great example of this can be found in the SS19 Red Thread collection showcased on the SAMW runway.
Designer Daniel Moleka has stated that his focus is on creating every day ready to wear garments and that his motto is “blend in but stand out”. Red Thread stayed true to their designer’s motto in a very clever little way; a simple white or black loose-fit T-shirt (a casual streetstyle basic) was emblazoned with the portrait of Louis XIV, one of history’s most extravagant monarchs.
5. Revive the ‘90s
The influence of ‘90s sports and activewear will play a major influence on men’s fashion over the next few seasons. Daniel Sher’s SS19 collection for his label Good Good Good hit all the ‘90s sweet spots; oversized slouchy silhouette, bold colour blocking and Bermuda shorts.
While it might be hard to think of summer while we’re all layered up keeping the cold at bay this winter, take heart from the fact that if the runways of SA Menswear Week are any indication, we’re going to look good when the weather finally warms.
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