With fashion trends moving cyclically by decade it’s no surprise that the ‘70s revival of the past three years is now being upended by ‘80s and ‘90s influences, with the ‘00s creeping in just a bit.
Think inside the box
Demna Gvasalia’s outsized influence on the industry via his output at Vetements and Balenciaga saw the return of the classic ’80s silhouette, this time in even more exaggerated proportions. Post-Soviet Union street influences were incorporated into the look, creating the sharp, overblown shoulders and generous trousers that have been cropping up everywhere. This season was more of the same at Balenciaga, while Dries van Noten and Martine Rose made the strongest case for evolving the silhouette into something a bit more wearable.
The bowling shirt
AMI and Prada sent broad striped resort collar shirts down the runway, in homage to the wholesome style of the ‘50s, here done in eye-catching colour combinations. On the other end of that spectrum, Louis Vuitton debuted Hawaiian shirts that would be right at home at a ’90s beach party.
Leg room
Hedi Slimane’s exit at Dior Homme sounded the death knell for the skinny jeans. It’s taken a while to peter out, but now more than ever designers are sending billowing trousers down the runway, which means your legs will finally have some room to move this summer. Shorts have been reworked, too, and are set to be cut extra short, or below the knee, borrowing from a ‘90s skater staple. Look out for more technical takes in the form of slightly reimagined cargo pants.
Tight tights
Citing the underground scene in ’90s Toronto, documented by photographer Trevor Hughes, as well as outdoor enthusiasts and bike couriers of the time, as inspiration for her SS18 collection, Martine Rose staged one of the season’s most compelling shows. Here windbreakers and logo T-shirts met with cycling shorts. Similarly, Louis Vuitton showcased a handful of looks which featured the same or full length tights.
Climb high
In a logical continuation of the longstanding athleisure trend, and Prada’s SS17 men’s collection, mountaineering gear gets the designer treatment in the form of technical jackets and nylon trousers from the likes of Lanvin, Balenciaga and, again, Martine Rose.
Tough trainers
Although the chunky trainer has its roots in an Ozweego collaboration between men’s wear godfather, Raf Simons, and adidas, beginning in 2013, the dad trainers of yesteryear are this summer’s hottest sneakers. Take inspiration from Kanye’s Yeezy Runner or Balenciaga’s Triple S, by copping yourself a pair of chunky running shoes by any of the more affordable sports and lifestyle brands.
Sources:
http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/06/12/martine-rose-ss18/
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/martine-rose
http://hero-magazine.com/shows/martine-rose-ss18/
https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/prada-spring-2017-mens-womens/all
http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-menswear/louis-vuitton/collection
http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-menswear/balenciaga/collection
https://nowfashion.com/dries-van-noten-menswear-spring-summer-2018-paris-22268?photo=1058139
https://nowfashion.com/ami-alexandre-mattiussi-menswear-spring-summer-2018-paris-22259?photo=1057407 http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/ami/slideshow/collection#6 http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/ami/slideshow/collection#9
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-menswear/prada/slideshow/collection#25
http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/01/19/balenciaga-fw17-sneakers/
http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/02/16/adidas-originals-yeezy-runner-release/ https://hypebeast.com/2017/6/kanye-west-yeezy-runner-calabasas-street-snap http://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/01/06/yeezy-runner-first-look-kanye-west/#slide-2 https://hypebeast.com/2017/2/kanye-west-yeezy-runner-white
https://nowfashion.com/lanvin-menswear-spring-summer-2018-paris-22293?photo=1060706 https://nowfashion.com/lanvin-menswear-spring-summer-2018-paris-22293?photo=1060662