It was exactly a decade ago that fashion icon and overall goddess, Beyoncé Knowles, so eloquently summed up life on Earth in one simple statement: “Who run the world? Girls!”
Ten years later, and we’re still watching in awe as women around the world work to continuously close the equality gap one day at a time. This Women’s Day, we put the spotlight on South African female designers who have given us one of the most valuable gifts in existence: the experience of self-expression through fashion; the armour in which we might run the world.
National Treasures
Born and bred in Jozi, Marianne Fassler is pretty much the matriarch for women in fashion in South Africa. Considering her incredible journey began in 1949, Fassler has pioneered this industry for longer than many of us have existed.
Drawing inspiration from the country that surrounds her, Marianne Fassler’s pieces reflect the lifestyle, climate, and aesthetics of our colourful nation.
Maria originally hails from the UK, but permanently settled in South Africa in the 80s, finding roots through her Sotho-born mother.
Known for her shoes and accessories, Maria is inspired by patterns, colours and textures indicative of Africa, and this is reflected in every garment she puts out into the world.
No one does shapes, lines or textures quite like Celeste Arendse. She’s a Cape Town-based designer known for her internationally acclaimed, unisex clothing line called Selfi.
More than this, Celeste is a visionary like no other. Having had the pleasure of witnessing her creative process up close, we can attest to the fact that her mind is indeed a wonderland.
Moonlighting as a pastry chef, Katherine-Mary Pichulik founded her jewellery and accessory brand, Pichulik, in 2012. It was quickly dubbed one of 10 African fashion brands to watch by Italian Vogue.
Pichulik is inspired by Katherine-Mary’s globe-trotting adventures, and by women with wicked senses of humour and strong presence, like herself.
African sophistication takes on a whole new persona when expressed through the eyes (and hands) of Thabo Makhetha. The Lesotho-born designer brings traditional attire into modern garments that have stolen the hearts of markets both at home and internationally.
Those of us who grew up in the 90s will likely hold fond memories of browsing the rails at YDE on a Saturday morning. It was here that Nobukhosi Nkosi first found her voice as a South African designer, bringing her label Khosi Nkosi to stores nationwide.
Nobukhosi remains an inspiration for young, female South African designers looking to break into the industry with their creative visions. Her bold yet classic garments are also must-haves in any SA woman’s wardrobe.
South African women know how to take up space, and how to challenge concepts that perhaps have yet to even get a seat at the table. This is how I feel about Jenevieve Lyons’ creations.
A constant exploration of the fine line between what is beautiful and what is not, and how to blend them into something beyond everyday conception. Her work is innovative in ways the South African fashion industry is not typically used to.
International Pioneers
Our sisters abroad deserve a mention on this special day too. Fashion knows no borders, and without the likes of these women (some present, some long gone) the feminine fashion landscape would not be nearly as redefined as it is today.
An ode to the greats: Miuccia Prada, the mind behind Prada fashion house. Maria Grazia Chiuri, who spearheaded Fendi, Valentino and now Dior. Diane von Furstenburg, who gave us the first-ever wrap dress for women. Donatella Versace, who single-handedly saved the Versace group following her brother’s death in 1997. And finally Vivienne Westwood, for constantly challenging what is deemed acceptable for women when it comes to fashion.
Lastly, a moment of deep gratitude for those of the past: Coco Chanel and her LBDs. Gloria Vanderbilt, the first designer ever to put women in jeans. Bonnie Cashin, who designed the first-ever female flight attendant uniforms for American Airlines. Kate Spade, whose handbag designs shook the world. And not to forget the one and only, Madame Carven, inventor of the very first push-up bra.
Here’s to them, and here’s to you: Happy Women’s Day — buy yourself something nice!
