Whether as a base layer or on its own, the white T-shirt is quite possibly the most versatile piece of clothing in any men’s wardrobe. For a great many men owning just one white T-shirt isn’t anywhere near enough, multiple or even a drawer full is required. The white tee is such a ubiquitous piece of men’s clothing that many don’t even consider it a fashion item but rather a – please excuse my language here – basic. To disregard the fashion and style credibility of this tee is to disregard a garment that has been a hero of men’s wardrobes not only for season after season, but year after year. To understand the white tees enduring popularity we have to understand its history, from utilitarian attire, to a symbol of youthful rebellion and finally to today’s men’s style essential.
The origin story
The first iteration of the white T-shirt can be found in a garment known as the ‘union suit’, a sort of onesie that buttoned down the front and had a buttoned rear flap (for the exact practical reason you’re thinking of). This 19th century onesie (patented in 1868) was originally meant as an insulation layer for workers labouring outdoors in winter but its impracticality, especially when the weather started warming again, meant that wearers would cut the garment at the waist to create a separate top and bottom.
Once companies started manufacturing the buttoned front top as a separate garment, we see the birth of the henley shirt. The henley gained popularity (and its name) as the garment of choice for rowers competing in the Henley Regatta and because of this original association with the English well-to-do, henleys are usually (and probably subconsciously) styled in a preppy, almost smart casual, way.
Jockey, then known as the Copper Underwear Company, were the first to market a button-less variation of the top and dubbed it the ‘bachelor undershirt’ (because evidently early 20th century men had no clue how a needle and thread combo worked). This variation of the top really went into mass production when the US armed forces ordered them for American troops during the two world wars and the white short-sleeved crew neck T-shirt that we know today began filtering into the public consciousness.
The rebellious teenage phase
By the 1940’s white T-shirts as we know them today were readily available to purchase in just about every department store, but as a piece of underwear. Wearing a tee as anything other than a base layer was considered an absolute no-no in polite society, the equivalent of walk through a mall in just your jocks today. Two men in two movies were the spearhead that eventually reclassified T-shirts as a clothing item instead of underwear; they were Marlon Brando in ‘A Streetcar Named Desire’ (1951) and James Dean in ‘Rebel Without a Cause’ (1955).
The characters portrayed by Messrs Brando and Dean, and their onscreen styling of T-shirts as clothing despite polite society’s beliefs on the matter, ignited a sense of rebellion against the restraints of conservative society. The new uniform for this rebellion was the simple white T-shirt. The movement also birthed the classic cool uniform of blue jeans and a white tee.
Prints, logos and designer T-shirt
By the time the end of the 20th century rolled around and printing processes had improved and evolved, the white T-shirt became the perfect vehicle not only for brand logos but also for protest messaging – think the Sex Pistols’ iconic ‘God Save the Queen’ print or the legendary marketing gimmick that is New York’s ‘I ♥ NY’ design. There also isn’t a designer label out there that hasn’t emblazoned its name across a simple T-shirt, and that’s a good thing as it allows for more people to buy into their favourite brand.
The white T-shirt has come a long way from its humble origins but in all its variations, whether plain or printed, it forms the basis for many classic and modern men’s fashion looks. They are a calming note underneath the wildest prints of the season’s resort shirts and are the perfect pairing partner for your most coveted sneakers.
P.S. Stay tuned to the blog for our official update on Men’s Fashion Trends in 2019 coming soon.
